Unleashing the Legend: The Ultimate Guide to Choosing and Installing a 98 Cherokee Lift Kit

Unleashing the Legend: The Ultimate Guide to Choosing and Installing a 98 Cherokee Lift Kit Lmctruck.Guidemechanic.com

The 1998 Jeep Cherokee XJ isn’t just a vehicle; it’s a legend, an icon of rugged capability and timeless design. Known for its unibody construction, solid axles, and surprisingly potent powertrains, the XJ remains a top choice for off-road enthusiasts and daily drivers alike. However, to truly unlock its potential and conquer more challenging terrains, a 98 Cherokee lift kit is often the first and most impactful modification.

Lifting your XJ isn’t merely about aesthetics; it’s about transforming its capabilities, allowing for larger tires, increased ground clearance, and improved articulation. This comprehensive guide will delve deep into everything you need to know about selecting, installing, and maintaining the perfect lift kit for your beloved 1998 Jeep Cherokee. Based on my extensive experience with XJs, we’ll cover the nuances, common pitfalls, and pro tips to ensure your project is a resounding success.

Unleashing the Legend: The Ultimate Guide to Choosing and Installing a 98 Cherokee Lift Kit

Why Lift Your 98 Cherokee? Unlocking True Potential

Deciding to install a 98 Cherokee lift kit is a significant step that offers a multitude of benefits, fundamentally changing how your XJ performs both on and off the pavement. It’s more than just a cosmetic upgrade; it’s an investment in your vehicle’s capability and your adventurous spirit. Understanding these benefits will help solidify your decision and guide your choices.

Increased Ground Clearance

This is arguably the most straightforward benefit of any lift kit. By raising the body and frame of your 1998 Cherokee higher off the ground, you significantly increase the distance between the lowest points of your vehicle (like the differentials and transfer case) and the terrain. This extra clearance is crucial for navigating over rocks, logs, and deep ruts without damaging vital components. Based on my experience, even an extra 2-3 inches can make a dramatic difference on moderately challenging trails.

Accommodation for Larger Tires

A higher lift directly translates to the ability to fit larger diameter tires. Stock 98 Cherokees are limited to around 29-inch tires without rubbing. With a properly chosen 98 Cherokee lift kit, you can comfortably run 31-inch, 33-inch, or even 35-inch tires. Larger tires not only look more aggressive but also increase your ground clearance even further and provide a larger contact patch for improved traction on varied surfaces. Pro tip: Always consider fender trimming or bump stop extensions when going for larger tires, even with a lift.

Improved Approach, Departure, and Breakover Angles

Off-road performance is heavily dictated by these three angles. The approach angle measures how steep an obstacle your front tires can meet without the bumper hitting. Departure angle is similar for the rear. Breakover angle relates to the ability to clear crests without scraping the undercarriage. A lift kit dramatically improves all three by raising the vehicle’s body, allowing your 1998 Cherokee to tackle steeper obstacles and navigate uneven terrain with greater ease and less risk of getting hung up.

Enhanced Off-Road Performance and Articulation

Beyond just clearance, a quality Jeep Cherokee XJ lift kit often includes upgraded suspension components like longer shocks, more flexible springs, and sometimes longer control arms. These components are designed to allow for greater wheel travel and articulation. Better articulation means your tires can maintain contact with uneven surfaces for longer, improving traction and stability when one wheel is in the air. This significantly boosts your XJ’s ability to traverse challenging, uneven terrain.

Aggressive Aesthetic and Stance

Let’s be honest, a lifted XJ just looks tougher. The transformation from a stock, unassuming SUV to a capable, aggressive off-road machine is visually striking. A lift kit, combined with larger tires, gives your 1998 Cherokee a commanding presence on the road and trail. This aesthetic appeal is often a strong motivator for owners, and it’s a testament to the XJ’s enduring design.

Understanding Lift Kit Types for Your 98 Cherokee

Not all lift kits are created equal, and the type you choose will significantly impact performance, ride quality, and cost. When considering a 98 Cherokee lift kit, it’s crucial to understand the different approaches to gaining that coveted extra height. Each type has its own set of advantages and disadvantages, catering to different budgets and intended uses.

1. Spacer Lifts (Budget Boosts)

Spacer lifts are the most economical and straightforward way to gain a modest lift, typically 1.5 to 2.5 inches. These kits consist of polyurethane or aluminum spacers that are installed above the front coil springs and sometimes longer shackles or "add-a-leafs" (AALs) for the rear leaf springs. They utilize your existing springs and shocks.

• Pros: Very affordable, easy to install, maintains original ride quality (since you keep stock springs), good for fitting slightly larger tires without extensive modifications.
• Cons: Does not improve articulation or off-road performance significantly, stock shocks might become a limiting factor, AALs can stiffen the rear ride and sometimes sag over time.
• Ideal for: Those on a tight budget, looking for a mild lift for aesthetic reasons, or light trail use.

2. Coil Spring and Leaf Spring Lifts (Full Suspension Lifts)

These are the most common and recommended types of lift kits for 1998 Cherokee owners looking for true performance gains. They involve replacing the stock coil springs in the front and the leaf springs in the rear with longer, often stiffer, aftermarket versions. These kits typically come with new, extended-length shock absorbers designed to work with the increased travel.

• Pros: Significantly improves off-road performance, articulation, and ride quality (with good quality components), allows for substantial lift heights (3-6+ inches), often includes other necessary components like new control arms or track bars.
• Cons: More expensive than spacer lifts, installation is more involved, can sometimes require additional modifications like a transfer case drop or slip yoke eliminator (SYE) for taller lifts.
• Ideal for: Serious off-roaders, those seeking a balance of on-road comfort and trail capability, or anyone wanting a comprehensive suspension upgrade.

3. Long Arm vs. Short Arm Kits

This distinction applies primarily to full suspension lifts, especially those providing 4 inches or more of lift. It refers to the length of the control arms connecting the front axle to the unibody.

• Short Arm Kits: These use control arms that are similar in length to stock. As the lift height increases, the angle of these short arms becomes steeper, which can lead to a harsher ride, reduced articulation, and poor handling, especially at higher speeds. They are generally simpler and less expensive.
• Long Arm Kits: These kits replace the stock control arms with much longer ones, relocating their mounting points further back on the unibody. This reduces the control arm angle, resulting in a significantly smoother ride, better articulation, and improved handling both on and off-road, particularly with lifts over 4.5 inches.
• Pros (Long Arm): Superior ride quality, better articulation, improved handling at higher speeds and over rough terrain.
• Cons (Long Arm): Much more expensive, significantly more complex to install (often requires welding and cutting), reduces ground clearance slightly due to lower arm mounting points.
• Ideal for: Dedicated rock crawlers, expedition vehicles, or those seeking the absolute best performance and comfort for taller lifts.

Choosing the Right 98 Cherokee Lift Kit: Key Considerations

Selecting the perfect 98 Cherokee lift kit involves more than just picking a height; it requires a thoughtful assessment of your specific needs, budget, and intended use. Based on my experience, rushing this decision can lead to costly mistakes and a less-than-satisfactory outcome. Here’s a detailed look at the factors you should weigh carefully.

1. Intended Use: Tailoring Your Lift to Your Lifestyle

This is perhaps the most critical factor. How do you primarily use your 1998 Cherokee?

• Daily Driver with Occasional Light Trails: If your XJ spends most of its time on pavement and only sees graded dirt roads or mild trails, a modest 2-3 inch lift with good quality shocks might be perfect. A spacer lift or a basic full suspension lift from a reputable brand like Old Man Emu (OME) would provide a comfortable ride and enough clearance for occasional adventures.
• Moderate Off-Roading and Weekend Warrior: For those who frequently hit more challenging trails, including rocks, mud, and uneven terrain, a 3-4.5 inch full suspension lift is often ideal. This height allows for 31-33 inch tires and provides substantial improvements in articulation and ground clearance. Kits from BDS Suspension, Rubicon Express, or Rough Country (with upgraded components) are popular choices here.
• Heavy Off-Roading, Rock Crawling, or Expedition: If your XJ is built for extreme adventures, you’ll want a 4.5-6.5+ inch lift, likely a long-arm setup. This level of modification often necessitates additional upgrades to steering, driveline, and potentially axles. These advanced setups provide maximum articulation and clearance but come with a higher cost and complexity. Brands like Rubicon Express, TeraFlex, or Clayton Off Road excel in this category.

2. Lift Height: Finding Your Sweet Spot

The amount of lift dictates what else needs to be modified and how your XJ will handle.

• 2-3 Inches: Minimal impact on driveline angles, often doesn’t require a transfer case drop or SYE. Great for 30-31 inch tires. Maintains good on-road manners.
• 3-4.5 Inches: This is a very popular range. It usually requires a transfer case drop or a slip yoke eliminator (SYE) to prevent driveline vibrations. You’ll likely need an adjustable track bar and possibly new control arms. Fits 31-33 inch tires. This height offers a fantastic balance of off-road capability and streetability.
• 6+ Inches: This is serious lift. A long-arm kit is highly recommended for proper geometry and ride quality. An SYE is mandatory, and you’ll need extended brake lines, custom driveshafts, upgraded steering components, and potentially re-geared axles. Fits 33-35+ inch tires. This is primarily for dedicated off-road builds.

3. Budget: Quality vs. Cost

Your budget will play a significant role in component quality and the overall scope of your lift.

• Entry-Level (Under $500-800): Often limited to spacer lifts, budget coil/AAL kits, or very basic full kits. While appealing, be wary of extremely cheap options as they may use inferior materials, leading to premature wear or a harsh ride. Common mistakes to avoid are buying the cheapest kit without considering component quality.
• Mid-Range ($800-2000): This is where you find excellent value with reputable full suspension kits. Brands like Rough Country (their higher-end kits), BDS, and Old Man Emu offer well-engineered systems that provide a great balance of performance and comfort.
• High-End ($2000+): These are premium kits, often long-arm systems, or comprehensive short-arm kits with top-tier components like adjustable control arms, custom-tuned shocks, and heavy-duty track bars. Brands like Rubicon Express, TeraFlex, and Clayton Off Road fall into this category, offering maximum performance and durability.

4. Components Included: Don’t Skimp on Essentials

A complete Jeep Cherokee XJ lift kit should address all necessary changes that come with raising the vehicle. Always check what’s included:

• Springs: Are they new coils and leaf springs, or just spacers/add-a-leafs?
• Shocks: Are they extended length and matched to the springs?
• Control Arms: Are they fixed or adjustable? Are they beefier than stock?
• Track Bar: Is an adjustable track bar included? Crucial for recentering the front axle.
• Sway Bar Links: Are extended or quick-disconnect sway bar links included?
• Brake Lines: Are extended brake lines provided if needed for the lift height?
• Transfer Case Drop/SYE: Is this addressed, or will you need to purchase separately?
• Bump Stops: Are extended bump stops included to prevent tire rub and shock bottoming out?

5. Tire Size Compatibility: Plan Ahead

Your chosen lift height directly dictates the largest tire size you can comfortably run without rubbing or requiring extensive fender trimming. Plan your tire size before buying your lift kit. A good rule of thumb:

• 2-3 inch lift: 30-31 inch tires
• 3-4.5 inch lift: 31-33 inch tires
• 6+ inch lift: 33-35 inch tires (with potential trimming)

6. Brand Reputation: Trust the Experts

Researching brands is crucial. Stick with companies known for quality, good customer service, and a strong track record in the off-road community. Some highly regarded brands for 98 Cherokee lift kits include:

• Old Man Emu (OME): Known for excellent ride quality and durability, often considered a premium choice for mild to moderate lifts.
• BDS Suspension: Offers high-quality, robust kits with a "No Fine Print" warranty.
• Rubicon Express: A long-standing brand with a wide range of kits, from basic to extreme long-arm systems.
• Rough Country: Offers very affordable kits, but it’s often recommended to upgrade their shocks and sometimes other components for better performance.
• TeraFlex: Produces high-quality components, though sometimes more focused on newer Jeep models, they have XJ offerings.
• Clayton Off Road: Renowned for heavy-duty, high-performance long-arm kits.

Pro tips from us: Don’t hesitate to read reviews, consult forums (like NAXJA), and talk to experienced XJ owners. Their real-world feedback is invaluable.

Essential Components of a Quality 98 Cherokee Lift Kit

A well-designed 98 Cherokee lift kit is more than just taller springs. It’s a carefully engineered system of components that work together to achieve height, maintain proper suspension geometry, and enhance performance. Understanding these individual parts is key to appreciating the value of a comprehensive kit.

• Coil Springs (Front): These replace the factory front coil springs, providing the desired lift height. They come in various spring rates (stiffness) to match different vehicle weights (e.g., if you have a heavy bumper and winch).
• Leaf Springs (Rear) or Add-a-Leaf/Shackles: For the rear, full leaf spring replacements are ideal for achieving lift and improving ride quality and load-carrying capacity. Alternatively, "add-a-leaf" (AAL) kits insert an extra leaf into your existing spring pack, or extended shackles replace the stock ones, both offering a more budget-friendly lift but often with a stiffer ride or potential for sag over time.
• Shock Absorbers: Extended-length shocks are absolutely essential to work with the taller springs. They are specifically valved to control spring oscillations and provide a comfortable, controlled ride both on and off-road. Matching your shocks to your springs and intended use is critical.
• Control Arms (Upper & Lower): These link the front axle to the unibody. With a lift, the geometry changes, pulling the axle back and affecting caster. Adjustable control arms allow you to correct caster and recenter the axle, crucial for proper handling and steering feel. For lifts over 4.5 inches, long arms are highly recommended for optimal performance.
• Track Bar: The front track bar centers the front axle laterally under the vehicle. When you lift an XJ, the stock track bar becomes too short, shifting the axle to one side. An adjustable track bar is mandatory for any lift over 2 inches to recenter the axle and prevent "bump steer" (where the steering wheel jerks over bumps).
• Sway Bar Disconnects/Extended Links: The sway bar limits articulation. Extended sway bar links maintain proper geometry at the new ride height. Quick-disconnect sway bar links allow you to easily unhook the sway bar for maximum articulation off-road, then reconnect for safe on-road driving.
• Extended Brake Lines: When the suspension fully droops with a lift, the stock brake lines can stretch and potentially snap. Extended stainless steel brake lines are a critical safety upgrade to ensure proper braking performance and prevent catastrophic failure.
• Transfer Case Drop or Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE): As you lift your XJ, the angle of the rear driveshaft becomes steeper. This can lead to driveline vibrations, especially noticeable at certain speeds.
  • Transfer Case Drop: This involves lowering the transfer case slightly, which flattens the driveshaft angle. It’s a simple, inexpensive solution for 3-4 inch lifts but slightly reduces ground clearance.
  • Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE): This is a more comprehensive solution that replaces the slip yoke on the transfer case output shaft with a fixed flange, allowing you to run a new, longer CV (constant velocity) driveshaft. An SYE eliminates driveline vibrations more effectively and increases driveshaft strength, crucial for lifts 4.5 inches and above. Based on my experience, an SYE is a worthwhile investment for serious off-roaders.
• Bump Stops: Extended bump stops prevent your suspension from "bottoming out" (where the shocks fully compress and hard parts hit) and prevent your tires from rubbing on the fenders at full compression. They are often overlooked but are essential for protecting your components and tires.

Installation: What to Expect and Pro Tips

Installing a 98 Cherokee lift kit can be a rewarding DIY project for the mechanically inclined, but it’s also a job that requires careful attention to detail and safety. Having personally tackled numerous XJ lift installations, I can attest that proper preparation and patience are key.

DIY vs. Professional Installation

• DIY: If you have a decent set of tools, some mechanical aptitude, and a solid weekend, a 2-4 inch lift is certainly achievable in your driveway or garage. You’ll save significantly on labor costs. However, be prepared for potential challenges like rusted bolts and seized components.
• Professional Installation: For taller lifts (4.5+ inches), long-arm kits, or if you’re simply not comfortable with the wrenching, professional installation is a wise choice. Shops specializing in off-road modifications have the right tools, expertise, and lifts to handle the job efficiently and correctly. This ensures proper geometry and safety, though it adds to the overall cost.

Tools Required (for DIY)

• Safety Gear: Jack stands (absolutely mandatory!), wheel chocks, safety glasses, gloves.
• Lifting Equipment: Floor jack (preferably a heavy-duty one), bottle jack.
• Wrenches & Sockets: Full metric and standard sets, especially larger sizes (18mm, 19mm, 21mm, 24mm, 36mm for axle nuts).
• Breaker Bar & Torque Wrench: Essential for loosening stubborn bolts and tightening to spec.
• Pry Bars & Mallets: For persuasion.
• Grinder/Cut-off Wheel (Optional but helpful): For rusted bolts or minor trimming.
• Impact Wrench (Optional but a lifesaver): Speeds up bolt removal.
• Penetrating Oil: Start spraying rusted bolts days in advance!

Common Challenges

• Rusted Bolts: This is the most common nemesis of any XJ suspension work. Frame nuts, control arm bolts, and leaf spring bolts are notorious for seizing. Based on my experience, ample penetrating oil, heat (torch), and a breaker bar are your best friends.
• Seized Bushings: Old rubber bushings can be a nightmare to remove.
• Tight Spaces: Working under an XJ can be cramped, especially around the transfer case and exhaust.

Safety First!

Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use sturdy jack stands on a level surface. Chock the wheels. Disconnect the battery. Prioritize your safety above all else.

Pro Tips from Us:

• Penetrating Oil is Your Friend: Start spraying all suspension bolts with a good penetrating oil (like PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench) several days before you plan to start. Reapply daily.
• Have a Helper: An extra set of hands makes the job much easier, especially when aligning components or wrestling heavy parts.
• Take Pictures: Document your process. Take photos before and during disassembly; they can be invaluable reference points during reassembly.
• Organize Hardware: Keep bolts, nuts, and washers organized as you remove them. Label them if necessary.
• Lubricate Bolts: Use anti-seize compound on all new bolts and threads during reassembly to prevent future corrosion.
• Inspect Everything: While you’re under the vehicle, take the opportunity to inspect other components like steering linkages, brake lines, and bushings for wear and tear. This is an ideal time for preventative maintenance.

Post-Installation Essentials: Don’t Skip These Steps!

Installing your 98 Cherokee lift kit is only half the battle. To ensure optimal performance, safety, and longevity, several critical steps must be taken immediately after the physical installation. Skipping these can lead to poor handling, premature wear, or even dangerous driving conditions.

1. Alignment: Absolutely Crucial

This is non-negotiable. Lifting your XJ drastically alters your suspension geometry, especially caster and toe.

• Caster: Affects steering stability and return-to-center. Incorrect caster can lead to wandering or twitchy steering.
• Toe: Determines whether your tires point slightly inward or outward. Incorrect toe will cause rapid and uneven tire wear.
• Camber: Less affected by lift kits on solid axle XJs but still checked.

Even if you’ve done a perfect job installing the kit, a professional alignment is essential to dial in the correct settings. Based on my experience, neglecting alignment is one of the common mistakes that lead to early tire replacement and a frustrating driving experience.

2. Test Drive and Re-torque

After installation and before alignment, take your 1998 Cherokee for a short, gentle test drive. Listen for any unusual noises, feel for vibrations, and check steering response. After about 50-100 miles, re-torque all suspension bolts to their specified values. Bushings and components can settle, and bolts can loosen slightly. This re-torque is a critical safety step to ensure everything remains secure.

3. Driveline Vibrations: Addressing the Wobble

As mentioned earlier, lifting an XJ steepens the driveshaft angle, which can cause vibrations.

• For 3-4 inch lifts: A transfer case drop (T-case drop) is usually sufficient to mitigate vibrations.
• For 4.5+ inch lifts: A Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE) kit with a new CV driveshaft is almost always required for smooth operation and durability.
  Addressing driveline vibrations promptly prevents premature wear on U-joints, the transfer case, and other drivetrain components.

4. Tire Clearance Checks

Even with your new lift, it’s vital to check for tire rubbing, especially at full steering lock or full suspension compression/articulation.

• Turn your steering wheel to full lock in both directions and visually inspect for tire contact with control arms, fender flares, or the frame.
• Articulate your suspension (e.g., drive over a ramp or curb with one wheel) to simulate off-road conditions and check for fender rubbing. You might need to adjust bump stops or trim fenders for optimal clearance.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Lifting Your 98 Cherokee

Having worked on countless Jeep Cherokee XJ lift kit projects, I’ve seen firsthand the common missteps that can turn an exciting upgrade into a headache. Avoiding these pitfalls will save you time, money, and frustration.

1. Going Too Cheap on Critical Components: While saving money is tempting, skimping on essential items like shocks, control arms, or an adjustable track bar can severely compromise ride quality, handling, and safety. A $300 lift kit might seem like a steal, but if it uses inferior materials or doesn’t include necessary geometry correction, you’ll pay for it later in discomfort, wear, or more expensive repairs. Pro tip: Always prioritize quality for components directly impacting safety and performance.
2. Neglecting Alignment: As discussed, a proper alignment is paramount. Some DIYers might try to eyeball it or skip it entirely, leading to severe tire wear, poor handling, and increased stress on steering components. Always factor the cost of a professional alignment into your lift budget.
3. Ignoring Driveline Angles and Vibrations: Vibrations from improper driveshaft angles are not just annoying; they can destroy U-joints, your transfer case, and even the transmission output shaft over time. Many people try to live with vibrations, but they are a clear sign of an issue that needs to be resolved with a transfer case drop or an SYE.
4. Not Upgrading Other Necessary Parts: A lift kit doesn’t operate in a vacuum. Taller lifts often necessitate upgrades to:
   • Steering: Stock steering components can be weak under larger tires and increased stress. Upgrading to heavier-duty tie rods, drag links, and a steering box brace is often recommended.
   • Braking: Larger tires increase rotational mass, making it harder to stop. Consider upgraded brake pads, rotors, or even a larger brake master cylinder.
   • Axles: For very large tires (33 inches and above), stock Dana 30 front and Dana 35 rear axles can be prone to breakage. Upgrading to a Dana 44, Ford 8.8, or even a Dana 60 might be necessary for serious off-road use.
5. Overlifting for Intended Use: More lift isn’t always better. A 6.5-inch lift might look impressive, but if your XJ is a daily driver and only sees light trails, you’re introducing unnecessary complexity, cost, and potential reliability issues. A moderate 3-4.5 inch lift often provides the best balance of capability and usability for most XJ owners.
6. Failing to Check for Clearances: Before hitting the trails, flex out your suspension and turn the wheels to full lock to ensure there’s no tire rubbing on fenders, control arms, or other components. Adjust bump stops or trim fenders as needed. Ignoring this can lead to damaged tires and bodywork.

Maintenance for Your Lifted 98 Cherokee

A lifted 1998 Cherokee, while incredibly capable, requires a bit more attention to maintenance than a stock one. The increased stresses on suspension and drivetrain components necessitate regular checks to ensure everything remains in top condition.

• Regular Inspections: Make it a habit to visually inspect all suspension components every few months or after particularly aggressive off-road trips. Look for worn bushings, cracked welds, bent components, or leaking shocks.
• Greasing Fittings: Many aftermarket suspension components, especially control arms and tie rod ends, come with grease fittings. Regularly grease these to ensure smooth operation and prevent premature wear.
• Checking Bolt Torque: Components can settle and bolts can loosen over time, especially after the initial installation. Re-torque all suspension and steering bolts periodically, perhaps every 6 months or 5,000 miles, or after any hard off-roading.
• Tire Rotation and Balance: Larger, more aggressive tires on a lifted vehicle are susceptible to uneven wear. Regular tire rotations and balancing are crucial to maximize tire life and maintain a smooth ride.
• Driveshaft and U-joint Inspection: Pay close attention to your driveshafts and U-joints, especially if you have an SYE and CV driveshaft. Check for play, rust, or signs of wear.

For a deeper dive into general XJ maintenance, check out our article on .

Our Top 98 Cherokee Lift Kit Recommendations (Categorized)

Based on years of modifying and driving these legendary vehicles, here are some recommended 98 Cherokee lift kit options, categorized to help you find the best fit for your needs and budget.

1. Budget-Friendly/Mild Lift (2-3 inches)

• Rough Country 2-3" Suspension Lift Kit (with upgraded shocks): Rough Country offers very affordable kits. While their basic shocks are often criticized, if you opt for their premium N3 shocks or upgrade to Bilstein 5100s, this kit provides a good entry point. It often includes new coils, rear leaf springs or AALs, and sometimes extended sway bar links. Great for fitting 30-31 inch tires.
• **Old Man Emu (OME) 2" Lift Kit