1973 To 1979 Ford Trucks For Sale: The Ultimate Dentside Buying Guide

1973 To 1979 Ford Trucks For Sale: The Ultimate Dentside Buying Guide Lmctruck.Guidemechanic.com

The roar of a classic V8, the unmistakable lines of a rugged pickup, and a sense of timeless American engineering – that’s what comes to mind when we talk about 1973 to 1979 Ford Trucks. Affectionately known as "Dentsides" by enthusiasts, these F-Series pickups represent a golden era of Ford truck manufacturing, blending utilitarian toughness with increasingly refined styling and comfort.

If you’ve been dreaming of owning a piece of automotive history, whether for a restoration project, a reliable daily driver, or a custom build, then searching for 1973 to 1979 Ford Trucks for sale is an exciting journey. This comprehensive guide will equip you with everything you need to know, from understanding the different models and engines to navigating the buying process and avoiding common pitfalls. Let’s dive deep into the world of Dentside F-Series trucks!

1973 To 1979 Ford Trucks For Sale: The Ultimate Dentside Buying Guide

Why the "Dentside" Era (1973-1979) is Iconic

The seventh generation of Ford F-Series trucks, spanning from 1973 to 1979, earned its "Dentside" nickname from the distinctive body line running along the side of the truck, resembling a subtle, elongated dent. This design element, combined with a significant redesign that introduced a larger, more comfortable cab, marked a pivotal moment in truck history.

These trucks weren’t just about aesthetics; they were built for work and built to last. Their robust construction and straightforward mechanicals have ensured their longevity, making them highly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts today. The Dentsides embody a perfect blend of classic styling and practical utility that continues to resonate with truck lovers across generations.

Understanding the F-Series Lineup (1973-1979)

Ford offered a wide range of F-Series models during this period, catering to diverse needs, from light-duty hauling to heavy-duty towing. Understanding the distinctions is crucial when you’re looking for 1973 to 1979 Ford Trucks for sale.

The F-100 and F-150: Light-Duty Workhorses

The F-100 was the traditional half-ton pickup, a staple for personal use and lighter work. It was a versatile and popular choice, known for its maneuverability and comfort. In 1975, Ford introduced the F-150, which quickly became the best-selling vehicle in America. The F-150 was essentially a heavy-duty F-100, designed to bridge the gap between the F-100 and F-250, primarily to skirt increasingly strict emissions regulations that applied to light-duty trucks.

The F-150 offered a higher payload capacity and gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) than the F-100, making it an excellent option for those needing a bit more muscle without stepping up to a three-quarter-ton truck. For buyers today, both the F-100 and F-150 are incredibly popular, with the F-150 often offering a slightly wider range of engine options and more robust components for modern use.

The F-250 and F-350: Heavy-Duty Haulers

For those who needed serious hauling and towing capabilities, the F-250 and F-350 were the go-to choices. The F-250, a three-quarter-ton truck, was a favorite among farmers, tradespeople, and anyone needing to transport heavier loads. It often featured stronger axles, suspension, and braking systems compared to its lighter counterparts. Many F-250s came equipped with powerful V8 engines, making them true workhorses.

The F-350 represented the pinnacle of the F-Series heavy-duty line, a one-ton truck designed for the toughest jobs. Often found in dually configurations (though single-rear-wheel versions were also common), these trucks were built for maximum payload and towing. When you encounter an F-350 among 1973 to 1979 Ford Trucks for sale, you’re looking at a vehicle engineered for serious, long-term durability, often making them excellent foundations for heavy-duty restoration or specialized builds.

Body Styles and Trim Levels

Beyond the weight ratings, Dentsides offered various body styles and trim levels, each adding to the truck’s character and functionality.

  • Styleside vs. Flareside: The Styleside was the more common, modern-looking bed with smooth, flush sides. The Flareside, with its distinct external fenders and running boards, offered a more classic, "stepside" aesthetic that many enthusiasts adore.

  • Regular Cab vs. SuperCab: The Regular Cab was the standard two-door configuration. In 1974, Ford introduced the SuperCab, an extended cab option that provided extra space behind the front seats, perfect for tools, groceries, or even jump seats for occasional passengers. Finding a SuperCab among 1973 to 1979 Ford Trucks for sale can be a real bonus for those needing extra interior versatility.

  • Trim Levels: Ford offered several trim levels, from the basic "Custom" to the luxurious "Lariat."

    • Custom: The no-frills, work-oriented truck.
    • Ranger: Added some creature comforts like improved seating and exterior brightwork.
    • Ranger XLT: A step up, often featuring chrome trim, better interior appointments, and more color options.
    • Lariat: The top-of-the-line, offering premium interiors, extensive chrome, power accessories, and often air conditioning, making it a comfortable cruiser even by today’s standards.

Popular Engine and Transmission Options

The Dentside era offered a robust selection of engines, from economical inline-sixes to powerful big-block V8s. Understanding these options is key to finding the right truck for your needs.

The Inline-Six Powerplants

  • 240 cu in (3.9L) and 300 cu in (4.9L) Inline-Six: These engines are legendary for their bulletproof reliability and torque. The 300 cubic inch inline-six, in particular, is often lauded as one of the most durable truck engines ever made. While not speed demons, they are incredibly robust, easy to maintain, and surprisingly fuel-efficient for their size. If you’re looking for a work truck or a reliable cruiser that’s easy on the wallet to maintain, an inline-six Dentside is an excellent choice.

The Small Block V8s

  • 302 cu in (5.0L) V8: A familiar name to Ford enthusiasts, the 302 offered a good balance of power and economy. It’s a versatile engine, easily modifiable, and parts are widely available.
  • 351M (Modified) cu in (5.8L) V8: This engine, along with the 400, belongs to the "335-series" engine family. The 351M was a common choice, offering more torque than the 302 and a good power output for its size. It shares many components with the larger 400, making parts availability decent.

The Big Block V8s

  • 400 cu in (6.6L) V8: Often paired with the 351M due to their shared architecture, the 400 provided a significant bump in torque and horsepower. It was a popular option for F-250 and F-350 models, providing ample power for heavier loads.
  • 460 cu in (7.5L) V8: The largest gasoline engine offered, the 460 was the undisputed king of power and torque for the Dentsides. If you need maximum pulling power or simply love the feeling of a big block, a 460-equipped Dentside is the way to go. It’s not the most fuel-efficient, but its performance capabilities are undeniable.

Transmission Options

Dentsides came with both manual and automatic transmission options.

  • Manual Transmissions: Common choices included the heavy-duty New Process NP435 (4-speed manual with a very low "granny" first gear) and the Borg-Warner T-18 (also a 4-speed). These are known for their ruggedness and simplicity.
  • Automatic Transmissions: The C4 (for lighter duty F-100s/F-150s) and the C6 (for heavier duty models and big-block engines) were the primary automatics. The C6 is particularly robust and can handle significant power, making it a popular choice for modified trucks.

The Ultimate Buying Guide: What to Look For When Purchasing a Dentside

Finding the right 1973 to 1979 Ford Truck for sale requires a keen eye and a methodical approach. Based on my experience, a thorough inspection is paramount to avoid costly surprises down the road.

1. The Enemy Within: Rust

Rust is, without a doubt, the number one killer of Dentsides. These trucks were built before modern rust-proofing techniques were widespread, and decades of exposure to moisture and road salt can take a severe toll.

  • Frame: Start by inspecting the frame. Look for any significant rust pitting, cracks, or repairs. Pay close attention to the areas where the suspension components attach. A heavily rusted or compromised frame is a major red flag and can be extremely expensive, if not impossible, to safely repair.
  • Cab: Check the cab corners, rocker panels, floor pans (especially under the mat), and around the windshield and rear window seals. Water tends to collect in these areas, leading to extensive corrosion. Open the doors and check the door jambs and hinges.
  • Bed: Inspect the bed floor, inner and outer wheel wells, and the bed sides, particularly near the wheel arches. Rust in the bed is common, but severity varies.
  • Fenders and Core Support: The front fenders, especially the lower sections, and the radiator core support are notorious rust spots. Extensive rust here can indicate a truck that has lived a hard life.

2. Engine Condition: The Heart of the Beast

A healthy engine is vital. Even if a Dentside engine is "running," it doesn’t mean it’s healthy.

  • Leaks: Look for oil, coolant, or fuel leaks. Minor weeping is common on old engines, but significant drips or puddles indicate a problem.
  • Noises: Listen for unusual noises like knocking, ticking, or excessive lifter clatter. A healthy Dentside engine should purr relatively smoothly.
  • Smoke: Check the exhaust for smoke. Blue smoke usually indicates burning oil, white smoke burning coolant, and black smoke an overly rich fuel mixture.
  • Compression: If possible, perform a compression test. This will give you a clear picture of the engine’s internal health. Low or inconsistent compression across cylinders is a sign of wear.
  • Fluid Levels and Appearance: Check the oil and coolant. Milky oil indicates a blown head gasket, while rust-colored coolant suggests poor maintenance.

3. Transmission and Drivetrain

The transmission and drivetrain need equal scrutiny.

  • Shifting: For automatics, ensure smooth, consistent shifts without harshness or slipping. For manuals, check for grinding gears, difficulty engaging, or a clutch that slips excessively.
  • Fluid: Check the transmission fluid level and appearance. Burnt-smelling or dark fluid is a bad sign.
  • 4×4 System (if applicable): Engage 4-wheel drive (both high and low range) and listen for unusual noises from the transfer case or front differential. Ensure it engages and disengages smoothly.
  • U-Joints and Driveshafts: Inspect universal joints for play and driveshafts for dents or damage.

4. Brakes and Suspension

These systems are critical for safety and driving comfort.

  • Brakes: Check for spongy pedal feel, excessive travel, or pulling to one side. Look for leaks around brake lines and calipers/wheel cylinders.
  • Suspension: Test the shocks by pushing down on each corner of the truck – it should rebound once or twice, not bounce excessively. Look for worn bushings, cracked leaf springs, or leaks from power steering components.
  • Steering Play: With the truck off, turn the steering wheel back and forth. Excessive play before the wheels start to turn indicates worn steering components like the steering box, tie rods, or ball joints.

5. Electrical System

Aging wiring can be a headache in older vehicles.

  • Lights and Gauges: Test all lights (headlights, tail lights, turn signals, brake lights) and ensure all dashboard gauges are functional.
  • Accessories: Test the horn, wipers, heater/AC fan, and radio.
  • Wiring Hacks: Look for signs of amateur wiring repairs, such as exposed wires, excessive electrical tape, or non-factory connectors. These can be fire hazards.

6. Interior Condition

While not always a deal-breaker, the interior’s condition reflects how well the truck was cared for.

  • Seat: Is the seat ripped, torn, or does the foam sag significantly? Replacements are available but add to the cost.
  • Dash: Look for cracks in the dashboard pad, a common issue due to sun exposure.
  • Door Panels: Check for damage, missing trim, or broken armrests.
  • Originality: If you’re seeking a show truck, the originality of the interior components can impact value.

7. Documentation and History

Always ask for available documentation.

  • Ensure the title is clean and matches the VIN on the truck.
  • Maintenance Records: Any service history, no matter how sparse, can provide valuable insight into the truck’s past care.

Pro Tip from Us: Never buy a Dentside without a thorough pre-purchase inspection by a trusted mechanic familiar with classic trucks. Their experienced eye can spot issues you might miss, potentially saving you thousands of dollars in repairs.

Common Issues and How to Address Them

Based on my experience restoring and maintaining several vintage Fords, certain issues pop up more frequently than others. Being aware of these can help you budget for potential repairs or negotiate a better price for 1973 to 1979 Ford Trucks for sale.

  • Fuel System Woes: The original carburetors (often Motorcraft 2150 or 4350) can suffer from wear, vacuum leaks, and clogged passages, leading to poor running, hard starts, or stalling. Rebuilding or replacing the carburetor is a common fix. Many owners also convert to aftermarket electronic fuel injection (EFI) for improved reliability and performance.
  • Vacuum Leaks: The extensive vacuum lines for accessories and emissions controls can become brittle and crack over time, causing rough idling and poor engine performance. Tracing and replacing these lines is a common maintenance task.
  • Steering Play: As mentioned in the buying guide, worn steering boxes, ball joints, and tie rods are common. Fortunately, most of these components are readily available and can be replaced to restore precise steering.
  • Aging Wiring: Decades of heat cycles and vibration can degrade wiring insulation, leading to shorts, intermittent electrical issues, or non-functional accessories. A full wiring harness replacement can be a significant undertaking but often revitalizes the truck’s electrical system.
  • Rust Repair Strategies: For rust, the approach depends on severity. Small patches can be cut out and new metal welded in. For extensive cab or bed rust, finding rust-free donor panels or reproduction parts might be necessary. It’s a labor-intensive process that requires skill and patience.

Valuation and Pricing: What to Expect

The price of 1973 to 1979 Ford Trucks for sale can vary wildly, from a few thousand dollars for a rough project to well over $50,000 for a meticulously restored show truck. Several factors influence valuation:

  • Condition: This is the most significant factor. A rust-free, mechanically sound truck will command a premium.
  • Originality vs. Customization: Highly original, unmolested trucks can be valuable to collectors, while well-executed custom builds can also fetch high prices. Poorly modified trucks, however, might be worth less.
  • Rarity: SuperCabs, Flaresides, or specific trim levels (like a Lariat 4×4) can sometimes be rarer and thus more valuable.
  • Engine/Transmission: While all engines have their fans, a strong-running V8 (especially a big block) often adds value. Manual transmissions can also be a plus for some buyers.
  • Location: Prices can vary regionally depending on demand and local climate (trucks from dry climates tend to have less rust).
  • Market Trends: The classic truck market is strong, and Dentsides have seen a steady increase in value over the past decade.

Common mistakes to avoid are: Overpaying for a truck with significant rust or mechanical issues that you underestimate. Always factor in potential repair costs when evaluating a truck’s price.

Restoration vs. Daily Driver vs. Custom Build

When looking at 1973 to 1979 Ford Trucks for sale, you’ll generally find them falling into one of three categories, each requiring a different approach and budget.

  • The Restoration Project: This path involves returning the truck to its original factory condition, often to a concours-level finish. It requires significant time, money, and attention to detail, sourcing period-correct parts, and meticulous bodywork and paint. This is for the purist who wants to preserve history.
  • The Daily Driver: These trucks are meant to be driven regularly. They might have some cosmetic flaws but are mechanically sound and reliable. The focus is on functionality, comfort, and safety. Many Dentsides make excellent daily drivers with a few modern upgrades like better brakes, a more reliable ignition system, or air conditioning.
  • The Custom Build (Restomod): This is where creativity truly shines. Custom builds blend the classic Dentside aesthetic with modern performance, comfort, and technology. Think powerful crate engines, updated suspensions, air ride, modern interiors, and advanced infotainment. The sky’s the limit here, both in terms of design and budget.

Parts Availability: One of the great advantages of Dentside F-Series trucks is the excellent parts availability. Due to their popularity and the sheer number produced, you can find a vast array of new reproduction parts (body panels, trim, interior pieces), used OEM parts, and aftermarket performance components. For more detailed information on sourcing specific parts, our article on might be helpful.

Pro Tips for Dentside Ownership

Once you’ve found your perfect 1973 to 1979 Ford Truck for sale and brought it home, the journey of ownership truly begins.

  1. Join the Community: The Dentside community is vibrant and supportive. Online forums, Facebook groups, and local classic truck clubs are invaluable resources for advice, technical help, and even sourcing parts. Connecting with fellow enthusiasts will enrich your ownership experience.
  2. Learn Basic Maintenance: These trucks are relatively simple, making them excellent platforms for learning basic automotive maintenance. Understanding how to change fluids, adjust carburetors, or troubleshoot simple electrical issues will save you money and give you a deeper appreciation for your truck.
  3. Invest in a Good Shop Manual: A factory service manual or a reputable aftermarket manual (like a Haynes or Chilton manual) is an essential tool for any Dentside owner. It provides detailed diagrams, troubleshooting guides, and specifications that are indispensable for repairs and maintenance.
  4. Be Patient with Parts: While parts availability is generally good, sometimes you’ll need a specific, hard-to-find component. Be patient, utilize online marketplaces, salvage yards, and the Dentside community to track down what you need.
  5. Enjoy the Ride: Ultimately, Dentsides are meant to be driven and enjoyed. Whether you’re cruising to a car show, hauling lumber, or just running errands, the unique character and feel of a classic Ford truck are an experience unlike any other.

Conclusion

The appeal of 1973 to 1979 Ford Trucks for sale is undeniable. These "Dentsides" represent a sweet spot in automotive history, offering classic styling, rugged durability, and a mechanical simplicity that makes them approachable for enthusiasts of all skill levels. From the nimble F-100 to the mighty F-350, there’s a Dentside for every purpose and passion.

By following this comprehensive buying guide, understanding the nuances of the F-Series lineup, and knowing what to look for, you’ll be well-equipped to make an informed decision. Finding the right Dentside is more than just buying a truck; it’s investing in a piece of American heritage and embarking on an exciting journey of ownership. So, start your search, do your homework, and prepare to turn heads with your very own classic Ford F-Series pickup. Happy hunting!

For further historical context and technical specifications of vintage Ford vehicles, we recommend exploring resources like the Ford Motor Company’s official heritage archives or other trusted automotive history websites.

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